Remote Africa - The town of Monduli

Jan 15 - Jan 24

The safari driver left me in Monduli - a small town where my aunt was working - on the return trip to Arusha. Monduli's landscape was a bit different to what I pictured. I thought it would be flat, hot, and maybe one or two trees. Instead, it is hugged by beautiful forested mountains (with the majestic 3500m Mt Meru in the distance), a mild temperature, and dirt roads lined by pretty jacaranda trees and flowers. The town is surrounded by farming areas - mud huts, goats, donkeys and chickens and little kids everywhere.

Like a lot of Africa, the houses in the town are mostly in disrepair, and everything seems filthy from the dirt dust in the dry season and mud in the wet season. Most the people in Monduli are in poverty, earning less than US$1 a day. There is no running water - just a tap that is situated quite a distance from the town. Every morning, there would be women and children lined up at the tap with their donkeys and colourful buckets to fill. If they didn't own a donkey, they would walk back with the buckets balanced on their heads.

I
was always amazed at how they balanced just about anything on their heads! Frequently we saw women carrying large sticks, heavy buckets of water, a large bundle of clothes, or trays of bananas on their heads.

The town was alive on Sunday with the Sunday markets. People, donkeys, bright coloured cloth, clothing, pots, shoes, fruit and veges laid out on the ground. Noisy, smelly, dusty and exciting!




We were going to try freshly slaughtered and roasted goats meat. I was a bit dubious, so was relieved when we decided there were no choice cuts to try!

WILD animal encounters

AFRICAN SAFARI
Sat 10 Jan - Wed 14 Jan



The safari experience was absolutely incredible! I have never seen so many wild and different and HUGE animals so close! I was with 2 other aussies - from Canberra - who were wonderful, and it was great to share the experience with them. Our safari guide was great, extremely knowledgable and very respectful of the animals and their natural behaviours.

Most impacting was the time spent just watching the animals 'do their thing' - hunting and eating prey, sharing it with their young, playing with their young, sleeping and all those things. We saw leopard, cheetah, lion (both male and female), elephants, giraffe, hippo, ostrich, many monkeys, buffalo, many zebras, warthog, hyena, impala and redbuck, and plenty of different birds.

Up close, the animals are larger than life! Elephants were bigger than our landcruiser - yet despite their size, they are graceful, quiet and nimble. Elegant are the giraffes, with their long long necks and long long legs! Hippo's are squat, fat and suprisingly big! When they open their very large mouths, you can see why they are to be feared! Of course, lions up close are massive. Our first sighting - was only 5 metres away, and I can tell you, when they looked straight at me, it sent shivers down my spine, and I felt very vulnerable standing exposed in the jeep.

Sleeping in a tent at night was a bit concerning at first. Especially after a few stories our guide told us....(for example - a buffalo that lept across their dinner table with a lion on it's heals...) but we all got used to it. I did hear a lion one night - and that was pretty cool. Fortunately I didn't need to use the bathroom any night.

Apart from the amazing wildlife, the scenery was fantastic. Sunsets and sunrises on the Serengetti were awesome.

Some highlights: watching a Leopard with it's prey in a tree and finding her cub to join in the feed; seeing lions hunt and kill a buffalo; having elephants stroll across the road in front of us; having a shower with an elephant just outside the window; hearing giraffes chomping on leaves.

Crazy bus trip.

Fri 9 Jan - Bus trip from Dar es Salaam to Monduli

I left the hotel in Dar at 4.45am, to catch the 5.45am bus. Sharon had warned me that these buses can take from 6 to 10 hours to get to Arusha, the big town in the middle of Tanzania (near Monduli). And I was to be prepared for anything - bus breaking down, axels falling off, running out of petrol, bad traffic, and a possiblity of crashing.

It took an hour just to get out of the bus terminal - which was an experience in itself. Busses lined up everywhere - except, they didnt look very 'lined' it was more like busses trying to form an intricate random mess - all racing (without much result) to get to the exit. We were told to be on the bus strictly half an hour before its departure - and it would wait for no-one, but clearly this rule did not apply to all. Every metre we moved, there would be some frantic passenger or two with a few bags shouting and banging on the front door of the bus. There were people interweiving through the busses - pushing, laughing, yelling, families saying their last goodbyes, kids playing tag - oblivious to the big moving vehicles, others selling and passing peanuts, water and bread to passengers through the windows, all accompanied by the bus radio pumping out Tanzanian pop and the loud drone of busses en masse. I enjoyed watching the whole scene.

One thing Sharon hadn't mentioned was the death wish at which the drivers opperate on. As soon as the bus was out of the terminal and on to the main road, we jerked into hyperdrive - the driver with his hand almost constantly on the horn manouevering through traffic and overtaking at horrendous speeds. Both revision mirrors were broken, so there was a 'spotter' - a guy who would stand at front door of the bus, and his job was to indicate to the bus driver when it was safe to pull back in after overtaking. He would also wave at the other vehicle, to make sure they really knew we were coming past. But the most unnerving part was the overtaking on completely blind spots - and I lost count of how many there were! We had a few incidents where I definitely thought it was the end.

I tried to just focus on the view, and the sites we were passing by. As we progressed out of the city area, there was less clutter and rubbish. The housing seemed to change - from dilapidated tin 'shanty' type to mud huts that were more neat, clean and compact. The countryside was full of many different plantations. But most intriguing were the humungous pineapples that were growing. I've never seen a pineapple so big! The earth was extremely red, and looked awesome against the vivid blue sky.
Eventually the Tanzanian pop was replaced with a really bad Tanzanian murder mystery movie - that had an awful soundtrack (the same musical theme over and over, punctuated by terrible sound effects) - and it was played at full volume. I had to resort to ear plugs.

All this seemed quite normal, and I eventually got used to the driver's erratic driving.
We had just passed through a small village (thankfully at a slower speed), when we came apon a small truck in front of us. It had 6 people standing in the back of it. Our bus driver didn't seem to be slowing down - just honking, intending on using his overtaking trick - until he suddenly realised that the truck was turning in front of us. I was sitting right at the front, and saw the whole thing transpire before me. The bus driver slammed on his brakes, but too late, and we slammed into the truck's side. The truck was thrust over on it's side, flinging the 6 people out of it, and we came to a halt. As I watched in horror, it seemed to happen so easily and simply, making me realise how vulnerable we all are. Everyone in the bus screamed, and people from the village ran out - kids, women, men screaming and wailing. The bus doors opened and passengers started clammouring out as a crowd of village men started forming around the bus. I was too horrified to move, my heart was in my mouth as I thought there may be casualties and I was not too eager to see any carnage. Things outside were starting to look a bit heated - as the men began talking aggressively with the bus driver and his 'spotter'. Suddenly a brawl started, fists, pushing and shoving, and I noticed a man with a huge rock eager to do some serious damage. I was feeling extremely nervous by this stage, and being the only white person around and not being able to communicate with anyone was not helping. The ladies on the bus were gathered around my window (which was at the front), screaming at the men and crying. Thankfully there were a few men who were able to calm down some of the aggression, and eventually the local police turned up to assist. Fortunately there were no deaths, however just bad injuries to the truck people. After what seemed hours, our bus got moving again and then had to go to report at the police station. With some intense talking and negotiating, one of the guys on the bus had to bribe the police with $100 to let us continue on the trip. I was glad to be on the road again - as I had no way of contacting Sharon - who was waiting for me at the other end.

The accident didn't seem to slow our driver down, and he continued to drive like a mad man. So I was extremely relieved when we finally pulled up in Arusha. We were 3 and 1/2 hours late, and Sharon was there waiting patiently. I think I must have looked quite pale and shooken when I got off the bus. Sharon was very sympathetic, and I was just glad to have survived a mad Tanzanian bus experience!

Zanzibar Dolphin adventure.

Thurs 8
I woke early to see the sunrising on the town. Dawn has such a great feeling to it!
After another Tanzanian breakfast, Sonja and I went on a dolphin adventure with a few other travellers. Again, we were taken in a van to another part of the Island. It was a long trip past more rural areas. The coast line is absolutely stunning. White sand, turquoise, gorgeous water. Just what you would expect for an exotic paradisical island.

The boat we went out on was an old handmade wooden fishing boat with an orange tarpauline rigged up to provide shelter from the sun. We headed quite far out from the coast. We were soon accompanied by frolicking dolphins. I was in awe. We were told to jump in - with our flippers and snorkels, and it was an incredible experience to be swimming with the dolphins. I could see them below me, even a baby dolphin between its parents. In the silence of the ocean, we could hear the dophins calling out to each other. It was amazing. Then they'd surface for air, some with others on their backs. An amazing special moment to be so close to these beautiful creatures.

Zanzibar - Paradise

Wed 7th Jan
Sharon left super early for her super early long bus ride to Monduli. I was up early to leave for Zanzibar. A typical Tanzanian breakfast is juice, banana, toast and an egg if you're lucky, accompanied by either really bad coffee or very sweet tea. I generally opted for the tea.

I walked to the ferry, just as the sun was rising. It was a glorious morning, and it felt good to be walking at sunrise - a more pleasant time before the mad traffic and heat of the day. Sharon had shown me the way to the ferry, it wasn't far, and I felt a lot more confident walking around than what I had the day before. (Maybe it was familiarity?). However, I was still alert. Tanzanians seem to have an attraction to loan female white people, and I was soon to be escorted to the ferry by a guy who sidled up to me and spoke some broken English. He was friendly enough, but I remained cautious. As I approached the ferry departure gate, he was trying to show me where I can buy a ticket - obviously another 'tout' looking for some extra cash. But I assured him that I was not in need of a ticket, I already had one. At that point he left me.

I lined up for the ferry amongst many other Tanzanian passengers. A young girl stood by me with big brown eyes, staring curiously at me. I smiled at her, and she responded with a beautiful smile. African kids are gorgeous, and I was entranced.
I had a window seat, and next to me sat a canadian girl - Sonja - who had been travelling for 3 weeks overland. We befriended each other - and decided to stick together while in Zanzibar. That worked out wonderfully - it was great to share the experience with someone else - and we were good travelling companions. The ferry trip was 2-3 hours long, and crossed open sea. It was extremely rocky at times, and I had to avoid looking out the window to see the horizon disappearing and re-appearing! Some people were sick. Thankfully I dont get sea sick.
Sharon had a contact in Zanzibar - Joshi - who would help with accommodation and any other 'tours' I might do. Sonja and I went to meet him when we got off the ferry. He was a real character, an Indian businessman owning an Indian restaurant overlooking the Zanzibar coast. He launched into his story immediately - telling us about his wife who lives in Canada, his relationship to his parents in law, his life in Zanzibar and his long expensive trip with his son to all the 5 star hotels in New York. I think he may have been extra talkative and friendly because Sonja was from Canada.
Our accommodation in Zanzibar was in a town called 'Stones town'. It is full of exotic beautiful Greecian and European style architecture, reminding me a little of Istanbul. Extremely different to Dar es Salaam. There were little alleyways winding through these old stone buildings filled with colourful bazarre like shops - selling paintings, sculptures, clothing, and spices. A fascinating place, and I fell in love with it immediately. Sonja was a photographist, so we both enjoyed capturing the town on film.

Joshi, our Indian friend, had organised a little 'spice tour' for us both. We were picked up in a van and taken off to another part of the Island to see where and how the spice's were grown. I found this quite interesting - as I had never really contemplated where spices like cardarmon, cinnamon and other things came from! I was extremely fascinated with the cotton tree. I dont think I fully comprehended that cotton grew on a tree. It looks rather out of place. The tour was conducted by a couple of teenagers who were very knowledgable. One younger kid clammoured up a coconut tree so easily and effortlessly - I was super impressed!

Sonja and I had an awesome tuna dinner on the beach as the sun set. It felt worlds away from the hustle of Dar es Salaam!

Tanzania Mania! Dar Es Salaam

DAR ES SALAAM - The beginning of my 'real' African experience.
Michael drove Sharon and I back to Jo'burg airport on Mon 5th Jan -
to fly to Dar Es Salaam - a major city on the coast of Tanzania.
The travelling took the whole day - we didnt arrive in Dar till after
8pm. Exiting the airport was an experience in itself. I wasn't sure
what to expect - but had been warned by Sharon of the "touts"
who prey on the bewildered tourists, offerring them them the
best deals for taxi's and accommodation, and are generally not to
be trusted. I was glad to have Sharon there - she knew enough
swahili to get these dudes out of our hair! We found a respectable
looking taxi driver, Sharon bargained a price, and we were driving
off into the dark streets of Dar Es Salaam. We ended up in a
poorly lit, rundown, dirty, alleyway crowded in by concrete
- accompanied by an attack of nerves! I thought that obviously the
driver had made a mistake, and taken us to the wrong place.
But, no, this was going to be the area we called 'home' for a few
nights. We had a bit of a mix up with the hotel we thought we
had booked, and it turned out there was no room for us there,
but thankfully the hotel around the corner, (in an even seedier
looking building) had room - only just - we had to share a double
bed.

Dar Es Salaam is hot and muggy. The hotel room had a ceiling fan
and a window, but both did not offer any recluse from the heat.
The room was all concrete, old and run down, but clean enough.
The bathroom had a falling apart western style toilet and a shower
(or more like a tap from the ceiling). Despite the sweat, heat,
thick air, and city sounds, we both managed to sleep well.

The next day, some of our plans changed. Sharon was to head
back to Monduli for work, and I was going to travel to Zanzibar
(an Island off Dar's coast) for a night. We spent the day wondering
around Dar, and organising travel arrangements. I realised that
this 'seedy' part of town was what Dar was like generally. I didn't
feel completely safe, and it was hard to walk around in obscurity
- since white people are quite a phenomenon. There are more
men on the streets than women, and they all call out as you walk
by. Some in Swahili, and others in English.
We needed to book a ferry for me to get to Zanzibar, and headed
down to the port. All the travel guides warn of the 'tout's' hanging
around at the port, jumping on poor unsuspecting tourists.
As soon as we were in the vincinity, we had men of all ages
surrounding us and offerring help, 'good' deals, peanuts,
and water - all to basically rip you off. They are quite a nuisannce,
and thankfully Sharon delt with them. I guess it is their way of
making a quid, but I think it turns people off more than anything.

Most the roads in Dar Es Salaam are just rubble - very rare to
find a sealed road. The buildings are grotty, old with urban decay.
Rubbish is everywhere - from food scraps and bits of junk to
large piles of smelly trash. Everything feels dirty. The cars
fill the roads, honking noisly and adding to the smell and pace
of the city. They do not stop for pedestrians, so it is almost life
threatening to cross a road!
As we walked the streets of the city, I noticed something that
is generally the case with all Tanzanians. Despite the squallor,
cluttered, dirty living, most people - and especially the women
- dress extremely well and seem to take pride in their
appearance. The women are beautiful in their long intricately
designed 'tanga's' (skirts). It is offenssive in Tanzania for women
to show their knees and shoulders, so all their skirts and dresses
are ankle length.

African Contrasts

Africa is a place full of contrasts! My trip has been so full of unique experiences & interactions, challenges and excitement!

I haven't been able to use the internet much - not surprising - since connections here are very bad and slow, and I haven't had time to sit in front of a computer till now!

So, I will attempt to create an interesting read of the amazing time I've had so far!

SOUTH AFRICA
It has been 4 weeks since I set foot in Africa. The first week was spent in the Drakensberg Mountains in South Africa. I arrived on Sat 27th Dec at Johannesburg Airport where I met Aunty Sharon (mum's sister) - with a recently discovered cousin, Michael, (from South
Africa), and drove 3 hours to the 'Berg's'. Michael and his family own a holiday lodge there. The scenery there was stunning. We woke up every morning to a beautiful mountain range, and when the mist had parted, we could see the 'Ampitheatre's' - a 3000m high rock cliff face of an extensive mountain range.

We met some wonderful people there - all relatations of Michael's wife, and they all made sure that Sharon and I had a fantastic time! There are no wild animals that can eat you in this area or other crazy happenings - so it felt quite safe (which is very rare in South Africa) to
wonder around - even on your own. So all in all, it was a more sanitised start to my African experience. But a lovely start!

We did a few hikes in the mountains. Which I thouroughly enjoyed. Hugging faces, green rolling hills, entering mini oasis's in the mountain valleys, beautiful gorges and waterfalls! I loved it!
Michael and his extended family also took Sharon and I on a motorbike / 4x4 trip to a small remote country in the middle of South Africa - Lesotho. Again, more stunning scenery! And totally wild sitting on the back of a motorbike, absorbing the atmosphere! I saw in Lesotho what I'd see later in Tanzania - the way some of the tribal communities live. The road through was all dirt, rocky and muddy at times, so it was pretty adventurous, and at times quite thrilling with extremely steep treacherous and narrow! I had a lot of faith in my driver - Anthony - who was very experienced. So no crashes! We passed round mud huts with thatched rooves, little children running, waving excitedly and sometimes desparately and calling out for sweets or money. On the back of the bike, I could smell the cattle, and the green hills, mixed with cooking aromas and other things. Our bike got bogged while in the middle of a herd of donkeys and goats. I had to get off with all the braying noisy animals to let Anthony get the bike moving. This would have been a funny sight-I would have looked like a
weird spaceman in my bike gear / helmet / gloves to the shepherds- in their blankets.

Treacherous, steep rocky road down SANI PASS

We had some other exciting adventures - including mountain bike riding, swimming, a giant swing and flying fox (that South African's call a 'Fuffy Slide'). As well as eating scrumptious food and having fantastic conversation! (and a few luxirious sleep-ins!).