Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Zanzibar - Paradise

Wed 7th Jan
Sharon left super early for her super early long bus ride to Monduli. I was up early to leave for Zanzibar. A typical Tanzanian breakfast is juice, banana, toast and an egg if you're lucky, accompanied by either really bad coffee or very sweet tea. I generally opted for the tea.

I walked to the ferry, just as the sun was rising. It was a glorious morning, and it felt good to be walking at sunrise - a more pleasant time before the mad traffic and heat of the day. Sharon had shown me the way to the ferry, it wasn't far, and I felt a lot more confident walking around than what I had the day before. (Maybe it was familiarity?). However, I was still alert. Tanzanians seem to have an attraction to loan female white people, and I was soon to be escorted to the ferry by a guy who sidled up to me and spoke some broken English. He was friendly enough, but I remained cautious. As I approached the ferry departure gate, he was trying to show me where I can buy a ticket - obviously another 'tout' looking for some extra cash. But I assured him that I was not in need of a ticket, I already had one. At that point he left me.

I lined up for the ferry amongst many other Tanzanian passengers. A young girl stood by me with big brown eyes, staring curiously at me. I smiled at her, and she responded with a beautiful smile. African kids are gorgeous, and I was entranced.
I had a window seat, and next to me sat a canadian girl - Sonja - who had been travelling for 3 weeks overland. We befriended each other - and decided to stick together while in Zanzibar. That worked out wonderfully - it was great to share the experience with someone else - and we were good travelling companions. The ferry trip was 2-3 hours long, and crossed open sea. It was extremely rocky at times, and I had to avoid looking out the window to see the horizon disappearing and re-appearing! Some people were sick. Thankfully I dont get sea sick.
Sharon had a contact in Zanzibar - Joshi - who would help with accommodation and any other 'tours' I might do. Sonja and I went to meet him when we got off the ferry. He was a real character, an Indian businessman owning an Indian restaurant overlooking the Zanzibar coast. He launched into his story immediately - telling us about his wife who lives in Canada, his relationship to his parents in law, his life in Zanzibar and his long expensive trip with his son to all the 5 star hotels in New York. I think he may have been extra talkative and friendly because Sonja was from Canada.
Our accommodation in Zanzibar was in a town called 'Stones town'. It is full of exotic beautiful Greecian and European style architecture, reminding me a little of Istanbul. Extremely different to Dar es Salaam. There were little alleyways winding through these old stone buildings filled with colourful bazarre like shops - selling paintings, sculptures, clothing, and spices. A fascinating place, and I fell in love with it immediately. Sonja was a photographist, so we both enjoyed capturing the town on film.

Joshi, our Indian friend, had organised a little 'spice tour' for us both. We were picked up in a van and taken off to another part of the Island to see where and how the spice's were grown. I found this quite interesting - as I had never really contemplated where spices like cardarmon, cinnamon and other things came from! I was extremely fascinated with the cotton tree. I dont think I fully comprehended that cotton grew on a tree. It looks rather out of place. The tour was conducted by a couple of teenagers who were very knowledgable. One younger kid clammoured up a coconut tree so easily and effortlessly - I was super impressed!

Sonja and I had an awesome tuna dinner on the beach as the sun set. It felt worlds away from the hustle of Dar es Salaam!




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