Intrepid adventures - Pamukkale

PAMUKKALE, Turkey. 26 Oct 09
My adventures are getting even more exciting - as I am now traveling through Turkey, Syria and Jordan with a group of 15. Our tour began with a real introduction to ‘Turkey’. We were waiting for a minibus to deliver us from our meeting point to the main bus station. Jess, our leader, has just told us this particular tour has never happened before, we are the ‘guinea pigs’ and that anything can happen - ‘this is Turkey’. Time was ticking, and Jess began to get just a little frantic. Suddenly on impulse, she had all 14 of us bundled (squeezed) into taxis for a little taste of crazy Istanbul driving. I have experienced Istanbul’s taxi service before. It is not for the feint-hearted! We screamed through Istanbul, taking the ‘scenic route’ at 90km/hr on tight-laned, winding roads in the dark. As we were flying along, one of the other taxis filled with our fellow precious group members pulls up close to our taxi and starts conversing with our taxi driver through the window - while still driving a casual 90km/hr. I have no idea what they were discussing - maybe the weather - or the football - but we were all just a little concerned about the van we were rapidly approaching ahead of us. Our driver finished his conversation, apathetically turns his head, regards the van as if it is only 50km ahead, and swings the wheel effortlessly to only just miss contacting it. Meanwhile, we all let out our breath simultaneously. We are making our way traveling together over the next 3 weeks through some amazing historical, scenic, culturally exciting countries. The group is great, 14 people - 5 Australians and 9 from the US, with a crazy chick NZ leader, Jess, who’s been living in Turkey over the past year or so. We are a great mix of ages and personalities - from mid 20’s to 50/60 yr olds, relaxed, easy-going, and adventurous. We boarded the bus which was taking us overnight to a town called Pamukkale. (for those geographically inclined, this is inland, south-east of Istanbul). Okay, I will never complain of Wagga bus trips again! 9 hours on a bus overnight is not much fun! The overnight train option sounded so much more romantic - however the Turkish government has decided (inconveniently) to do track work which is taking a bit longer than planned…

We arrived in Pamukkale to do a day’s worth of exploring. I had no idea what we were exploring - until we walked up the crest of the hill and in view was an immense, weird looking mountain that looked like it was covered in snow. I’d never seen anything like it before. It was the ’Travertines’ - which is a calcium deposit build up over centuries (and centuries!). Streams of thermal water flow over and down the cliffs, forming little thermal pools, iridescent blue against the sparkling white. We were allowed to walk over it - without shoes and ripples of built up calcium massaged my feet. Above the Travertines, sits the ruins of an ancient Roman city - Hierapolis, with the remains of an amazing theatre. We spent quite a few hours wondering around the city at our own pace. The city would have been beautiful in its time - set in gorgeous scenic rolling hills.
It’s nice to be sharing the journey with a group of people. I really enjoyed my alone traveling time, however it is good to be able to share meals with people, get to know and form relationships with them and experience things together.

ISTANBUL, Turkey

People crammed onto the tram as we got closer to downtown Istanbul. Fresh off the plane, I was seated with my large backpack still attached, my excitement brewing rapidly as we approached the heart of this pumping city. I hadn’t realized how much I loved Istanbul - until I made the return and discovered my heart leaping backflips!
There are so many sides to Istanbul. An exciting city - dirty, smoggy, cluttered, noisy and smelly, yet beautiful in sights - the sea, shady parks, and an immense river. Rich in colour, history and its people cosmopolitan, passionate, joyful, vibrant and spirited. Completely unique, standing on its own from any other city in the world.
Its sounds, smells, sights, and tastes of Istanbul are what make this city different. Like any busy city, the traffic noise (especially taxis!) punctuated by polite yet unrestrained use of the horn is inescapable. Competing with the traffic is the shouting of men selling their wares from overflowing shops and street vendors selling corn-on-the-cob or large donut shaped bread sticks, and the general hubbub of MANY people (11million! - plus all the tourists…). Down by the water, the sounds become even more intense, with cars, trams, busses, people and ferries! The Bosphorus, the large canal-like river that runs through the centre of Istanbul, is a happening place! I am amazed at how many boats, ships and ferries cruise, speed, row, putter, and sink on the Bosphorus! It is a very busy port - with fishing boats, cruisers, container ships, ferries, and other indefinable floating devices. And yes, they are not quiet! Fog horns, motors, engines, steam, whatever - they all add to the city symphony. Interwoven in this wash of sounds, about 5 times a day, the call to prayer is amplified through megaphones from the iconic mosques all over the city. I find the passionately sung call beautiful, a stark reminder that this is an Islamic country despite its cosmopolitan atmosphere. Bringing all these sounds together, is the music of Istanbul - the heart of Turkey. Wondering past shops, restaurants and houses, the unmistakable traditional Turkish music is heard. The Turks are very proud of their music heritage, and if it isn’t traditional music, it is Turkish music fused with pop, jazz or funk.

The people of Istanbul are warm, eager to help, peaceful and very social. Being an Islamic country, there are more men about than women. They sit around chatting together, laughing easily and readily. They are kind and gentle people. They like socializing, and they gather together in Tea-houses smoking cigarettes, hookahs (water pipe) and playing back-gammon.
To get the full Istanbul experience, I tried a hookah with some Belgium girls I’d met in my hotel. We sat in a outdoor ‘tea-house’, full of locals (and tourists) smoking hookahs. It is not like normal smoking where you inhale the substance - you don’t actually breathe it in - so the smoke is blown out immediately. Also, it is filled with apple flavored smoke so you taste apple in your mouth as you breathe out. I found it fascinating, but not exhilarating! Another favourite Turkish pass-time is to play backgammon. Again, as you walk past tea-houses with hookahs, you will inevitably see Turks playing backgammon. My Belgium friends wanted to learn, so we asked for a game and I taught them how to play. There was some live music to add to the atmosphere. And then, to top the experience off, a Turkish ‘whirlish’ dancer entertained us. This is actually quite an intriguing thing to be called a dance! It basically consists of one spinning around with arms out wide non stop till the music ends. Interestingly, the dancer doesn’t seem to be affected by dizziness afterwards! Apparently it is a ‘trance-like’ dance.

As I am alone, (and a woman), I have been approached many times by men who are curious about where I’m from and what I’m doing and where I’m going and what my name is… I quickly discovered that their interest mostly has no intentions other than general curiosity. Not like Tanzania where their intentions were more often questionable! I have had a few harmless offers from guys to take me into Taksim - the music heart and night-life of Istanbul, but once they discover I have a boyfriend, they take back their offer.

‘Taksim’ is the music centre of Istanbul. There is a narrow busy pedestrian shop filled street that winds for about a kilometre through Taksim. The amount of music shops - selling traditional Turkish instruments is quite amazing! The clarinet plays quite a large roll in Turkish music - and every music shop window had an array of different clarinets. I was fascinated with the metal clarinets, and had to have a go! They are pitched differently, based on a minor mode key. They make a rich sound, however the holes are awkwardly placed and I found it difficult to play. I also tried an instrument called the Dukun. It looks like a recorder - yet is played with a large double reed (as big as a bass clarinet reed)and sounds like a clarinet. It had a reedy and haunting sound. At night Taksim comes alive with pumping night clubs, jazz and Turkish music. It isn’t the best place to be as a single woman, and it was quite a distance from my hotel, so unfortunately I didn’t get the chance to see it in its late night glory.

To get to Taksim, I had to cross the long Galata Bridge that crosses the Bosphorus river. Lined up along the bridge are fishermen - another iconic sight of Istanbul! Young and old, some fishing all day, some turning up after work - in their business suits to make their catch for the evening. They chat and laugh and swing their lines around, completely oblivious to the pedestrians passing by and the loud constant flow of traffic. By the bridge, on the water are boats rocking with huge BBQ’s, and men cooking the ‘catches of the day’ on them. They slap the fish in a roll with some onion and lettuce and sell it for 4 Lira. (About $3). This goes on all day and into the night. I sat eating the fish sandwich with the locals, enjoying the atmosphere, smells, people and the sun setting, silhouetting the mosque filled skyline.

In Istanbul, there are cats everywhere. They seem to wonder around like they own the city - just like a cat 'owns' the house it lives in. They find anywhere they like to sit, sleep or lick themselves - whether it’s outdoors or in! I found a cat quite content on the seat of a motorbike yesterday. Today, I was sitting in a park and discovered a cat having a snooze in the tree next to me. I also saw some cats lazing about on the rocks by the water! The Turks seem to enjoy having the cats around, and not infrequently, I see the cats getting their share in some affection.

Since I have been to Istanbul before, and seen a lot of the ‘tourist’ attractions - all the mosques and ancient historical sights, I am happy to just relax and absorb the city at a slower pace. It is nice to just wonder around, watching people, cats, boats. Enjoying the smells, tasting the food, sitting in a park, and taking a rest from ‘sight-seeing’. (I think I’ve suffered overload over the past few weeks!). A feast for the eyes, Istanbul is full of colour with its abundance of carpet, ceramics and lightshade shops. There is a 'spice market' which is an enclosed space of crammed in stalls all generally selling the same thing - spices and dried fruit. It is a game for the stall sellers to strike up conversation and sell you something!

My hotel restaurant balcony has a stunning view of the Sea (of Marmara). I’ve spent quite a few long hours watching the boats float by, with their huge trawlers and followed by flocks of opportunistic seagulls. The sunsets and sunrises on the water have also been a treat. And I am as happy as a pig in mud!

As you can see, being in Istanbul has been awful! :D

Tomorrow I meet up with 12 people for an organised 3 1/2 week tour of Turkey, Syria and Jordan. Very excited about that! It has been a month already...and the next few weeks will fly! 　
　
　
　

16th-19th BUDAPEST, Hungary

The hostel I’m staying at in Budapest is another home-like place! It’s in an old renovated apartment building, and my bed is in a loft, with a ladder to climb up to it.

Budapest is a great city. Vibrant, historical, alive, energetic, buzzing, cultural. There is so much art and music here! The buildings are a bit more darker, grey and ‘somber-feeling’ than the colorful buildings in Prague. The people are friendly, and welcoming.
I went for a walk all over the city on my first day. I saw some great contemporary art galleries - was very inspired! I wondered around some historical buildings and Buda castle. In my wondering about, I came across lady advertising a folk-music / folk dance concert for that evening. I thought that might be good to go to. On arriving at the building where the concert was, the lady who I’d met earlier informed me that I was at the wrong place. Two other ladies - from Austria - were in the same predicament. But she kindly organized for a car to come and take us to the other side of the Danube where the concert was. I befriended the 2 Austrian ladies as we were in this weird situation together! The concert was good - I enjoyed the folk dancing - very energetic! The dancers were accompanied by a gypsy 10-piece string orchestra, with a loan clarinet player (who had amazingly fast fingers!) and a weird sitar-like instrument - and the guy who played it was incredible! After the concert, I was ready to head to bed, however my new Austrian friends were keen to do a bit of sight-seeing. I was happy enough to walk around with them. Budapest looks fantastic at night - we found some really good views of the city. (One view from on top of a very high arch-way, with no rails!). We parted company eventually, and I walked back to my hostel - since the trains had stopped going. Very sore and tired when I finally got to bed!
One must-have experience in Hungary was the Baths! After my day of walking many km’s, I decided to head out to the famous Baths. I really had no idea what they’d be like, but wow!! So glad I went!!
The baths were in an old building / enclosure. As you walk in the entrance, you can see a huge open-air series of 3 pools with steam coming out. It was a chilly day, so it looked quite enticing. (but the people who were out of the pools in just their bathers looked particularly cold as they danced on tippy-toes to the warm water.) After buying your ticket, you enter into the change/locker room. Changed into your swimmers, you head through into another room with 2 smallish pools. One at 20 degrees and one at 40! Another room, another pool at a different temperature. Then there were some saunas amongst the pools. I’ve never been in a sauna before - must admit, I think I used to be ‘scared’ of them! (weird I know). So I ventured in. The first sauna was 30-40 degrees. I survived that, so thought I’d try the next one - 40-50 degrees. Fine! And later, the 90-100 degrees… oooh didn’t last 5 minutes! Anyway, without going into more pool-sauna-degrees-warm-hot-chill-steam-ice details, the whole thing was magical! Felt so good - exhilarating, relaxing, tingling, breathtaking! The atmosphere was fun too. So many people around, lazing in the pools. I was imagining I was back in the Roman period! The outdoor pools were great too - I spent more time there, absorbing the atmosphere, the sky, the gorgeously ornate architecture surrounding the baths, the steam coming off the water making everything look mysterious and enticing.
I came home suitably relaxed (and tingling!). I think these sort of baths should be introduced in Australia!
I spent my last day in Budapest on a bike. I hadn’t made up my mind about what I’d do, and with a vague idea of heading to the “Citadel” (on top of a hill, with great views of the city), I stumbled across a bike-hiring place. I thought that’d be fun as the sun had decided to shine, and it was a much faster way of getting around the city. The view from the Citadel was fantastic. However, I discovered how unfit I was while getting to the top! :P Coming down, was super fast and easy. Until I realized I’d come down the wrong side! I didn’t know how to get back (without a detailed map), so had to head up the hill again! Gr! But it was good to be pumping blood again. The sun soon disappeared, and I soon discovered that it was really very cold. And typically, my fingers and toes decided they’d go on strike. So when I finally got back into the city area I was chilled to the bone. I popped into a café for a coffee - or more to warm up!
I started noticing all the statues in Budapest - after the night with the Austrian ladies. One of them was fascinated with all the statues and kept stopping to take many photos. The statues are larger than life, detailed and very expressionistic. Horses rearing up, life-like figures of men and women in different poses and attitudes, some standing strong and king-like and some just doing everyday things like sitting on a chair watching the world go by. The statues tell a bit of history as well. Centuries old, to modern day statues. I have a whole new appreciation for the art!
I returned to the hostel that evening and one of the other girls there mentioned she was thinking of going to the opera that night. I had been contemplating it as well, and so we decided we’d go together. That was incredible! Partly because, the ticket was 2 Euros! That’s about $4!!! Amazing! The opera house was stunning inside. We had a standing ticket, and not the whole view of the stage, but it was still a wonderful experience. They played Bela Bartok’s ‘Bluebeard’s Castle’ and it was a fantastic performance of a really intriguing piece! Very modern staging too, they used computer graphics and interesting mirror-like large panels to reflect the computer images and stage scenes. I’ve actually never been to an opera before - so it was a brilliant first-time experience!
　
　

12 - 16th Oct Slovakia - High Tatras.

My next destination after Krakow was the High Tatras - Slovakian Alps. I had to catch a tram and 2 busses to get there. It was a long trip, with spectacular scenery. Every time I get out of the cities, I realise how much I love the country! As we approached Slovakia, the scenery got better and better!
I arrived in a wonderful picturesque little village called Zdiar nestled in a huge majestic mountain range in Slovakia. Apparently there was a massive mountain view outside the ‘Ginger Monkey’ Hostel I stayed at, but when I arrived there was already a low cloud settling in, and the weather didn’t get any clearer! I could only imagine the sight. The ‘Ginger Monkey’ is a quaint old cottage that an English guy, Jim, bought 2 years ago to set up as a hostel. Since it is ‘out of the way’ - it attracts ‘out of the way’ sort of travelers. By that I mean people who are looking for something more than just the city highlights / party atmosphere of traveling. Some of the guests (and staff) had been on the go for a long time. One guy had been on the road for about 4 years. I find that incredible. I don’t think I could live that way! It made me think a lot about what travel is and why we do it! More contemplations later! Anyway, the other hostel-lers were friendly, fun and interesting to chat to. (oh, and still more Australians! (and Melbournians, might I add) They ARE everywhere!)
I went for a walk when I arrived through some rolling hills / pasture-land into a pine forest. The weather was a bit dicey. Very cloudy, misty and imminent rain. But I found a great spot on top of a hill that had a panoramic view of the mountains and sat there contemplating for an unknown amount of time. (until I almost froze!!) Nice to sit and think again. J
Another communal meal at the hostel - Indian Curry!
I came to Slovakia to hike in the mountains, but on the first day there, I awoke to massive snow flakes falling thickly! It had snowed all night, and the view out the window was magical! To go outdoors was an event in itself. I was thankful for the warm clothing I’d brought with me. Thermals, 2 pairs of socks, waterproof shoes, waterproof pants and jacket, scarf, beanie, gloves. Ok, so it’s just like rugging up to ski, but somehow it’s more exciting when it’s in a wildly different country, and it’s actually snowing thick snow flakes, and the snow is about 1metre deep, and it’s right out your door! A rare occasion to experience!
Since the weather wasn’t conducive for hiking, I took the opportunity to have some rest and relaxation - lots of reading, playing cards and talking with the other guests. At the hostel, there was a dog named Wally. I must say, I’ve never really been into dogs… but Wally and I had a great time together! I went out to make a snowman, and Wally thought that was great fun. He dug up snow, ate snow, rolled in the snow and ran after the snow I shoveled away. We played soccer - I kicked the ball and he’d do a running / jump / dive into the snow attacking the ball with focused ferocity! I also took Wally for a walk (in an almost blizzard) - down to the local store for ‘supplies’. That was the first time I’ve walked a dog! (Or more like, the first time a dog has walked me…). We became fast friends.
As the snow got thicker, I and the other guests headed out with toboggans and snow-boards to the back of the house where there was a mini-slope. For about and hour we entertained ourselves with face-planting into the snow, making snow-angels and having snow fights. It was kind of cool to be sharing so much fun with complete strangers! One evening, Jim wanted us to experience some local tucker - goulash. I think most the village restaurants must have assumed no-one would be out in the snow as they were all closed. However, we did find one extremely cosy little pub that served beer and very tasty goulash for about $6! We crammed into the tiny eating area, about 12 of us, when suddenly there was a black-out. Completely, pitch-black! No light - and no heating! So we sat and shivered together, while the poor old pub owner (who was working on his own) served us beer in candle-light. I don’t think he was expecting so many people on such a cold night - and was a bit hesitant to cook up goulash for 12! But with some gentle persuasion, good cheer and the electricity coming back on he obliged.
I was going to get a lift with an Israeli couple to the next town where I’d catch the 5 hour train to Budapest, Hungary. However, as we shoveled their car out of the snow, I started thinking of the road conditions - snow and ice, and driving without chains - and the fact that the Israeli couple had never even seen snow before! I started to think that I didn’t want to end my life on a road in the middle of Slovakia - so decided to take the bus instead! (Although, Slovakian bus drivers aren’t well known for their safe driving…). I ended up being accompanied by an English guy, Edwin who was also staying at Ginger Monkey. We traveled together all the way to Budapest. He was a great traveling companion. We had some very interesting conversations, sharing the love of art, music, ‘earthy’ stuff. A friendship sparked - in a moment in time - that remains in that moment in time! It was nice to have someone else to share the navigating around once we hit Budapest at about 9pm.

10 Oct - Auschwitz
Confronting. Overwhelming. Sickening. Horrifying. I wasn’t quite prepared for Auschwitz. I don’t think anyone can be. The huge scale of Birkenau - the camp set up for the gas chambers was overwhelming. It was a grim, gloomy rainy day, freezing. Quite fitting. The air felt thick, oppresive, and even had a weird smell to it. I found it impossible to fully comprehend the realities of the horrors there, however it solidified the historical event a lot more by being there in person (than reading it in a book). The day spent in Auschwitz left me numb and with a sick feeling in my gut. I cant begin to understand the mentality behind how or why people could conduct such atrocities on other humans.












The railway tracks in Birkenau - leading to death. The Jews would disembark the train, and immediately be seperated - majority would be sent straight to their death in the gas chambers, and the others were made to work and live in completely inhumane conditions, surviving no longer than 2 months, some only 2 weeks. A picture of the endless barbwire fences enclosing the camp. A picture of the living quarters - an old cattle shed. Bunk beds, paper mattresses, thin ragged blankets, 2 bucket toilets per shed, no heating or insulation.












Lastly, a picture of the dorms in Auschwitz - they look much better, however they were brick buildings of hell - starvation cells, 'standing' cells, rooms where medical 'experiments' were made on children, and rooms of torment. The preservation of the concentration camps are a memorial and sober warning against racism, xenophobia and war.

Oct 9 Olomouc 1.55pm
I think Olomouc has some mysterious magnet or something. Here I am, sitting in a café in the town of Olomouc, when I should be on the train to Poland!
Last night, I met 2 travelers who were heading to Krakow, Poland today and since the tickets are cheaper if there are 2 or more people, they invited me to join them.
So this morning, we departed together, and I lead them to the tram which I was sure was heading towards the train station. The 2 girls weren’t convinced we were going the right way. They asked someone in English if it was the way to the train and the woman shook her head. My gut instinct was still feeling it was right (and I wasn‘t convinced the woman had understood the question) - since I’d caught the tram the day before and it all looked familiar enough to me. However, I know I can be directionally challenged at times, so I began to distrust my feeling. So we disembarked the tram to catch one in the other direction.
We boarded the next tram, and I pulled out my ‘translator’ (a friend lent me this awesome device - which I only just got batteries for). I typed in the word ‘station’, and showed it to one of the passengers. She nodded her head. I laughed to myself, “I’m sure this is the way” I’d said…and wrong again. But as we headed further out of town, and the sights became less and less familiar, and it seemed to be taking a lot longer than I knew the train station to be, I began to question once again!

We asked yet another local, who this time definitely understood our question, and said we were on the wrong tram, and very far from the station. We knew we'd missed our train, and the next train was 2 hours later - with a few extra stops and carriage changes!

* * *

The train trip was interesting. I was glad to be traveling with 2 others, as the train seemed quite deserted for most part of the trip. As we got on the train, we passed a guy in one of the carriages who seemed to fancy us, and he followed us to where we sat down, and plonked himself down opposite us. He then began to talk to us constantly in Polish. We figured after a while that he was pretty harmless, but his chatter was non-stop and became quite annoying after a while! The train was old, rattly, and very noisy! very different to the train I caught from Prague.
We had to make a few train changes along the way which were a little stressful as our first train ran a bit late. But all ended well, and 6 hours later we made it to Krakow, Poland in one piece!

Picnics, tea, and ice hockey...

Morning view











They say that when people travel to Olomouc, they often end up staying there longer than they intended. I have been seduced by the place! Initially I was going to head off today, to Poland. But, with the relaxed, friendly atmosphere of the town and the hostel, and on discovering that there is a cool Jazz gig on tonight, I decided to stay another night.
Yesterday was a wonderful day. I woke early, after the first night of unbroken sleep (woohoo!) and headed out to watch the town come alive. The hostel is right in the centre of the old town, a great spot!
Inspired by last night’s communal dinner - and how food mysteriously brings people ‘together’, I offered to share some of my porridge with those that were up. The Irish guy Seamus rejoiced at my offer - and launched into how much he loves porridge, and how much he’s missed it while traveling, and how great it is for you…I had an immediate affiliation with this guy! And over our porridge, we talked of many things - cultures, industrialisation, economy, religion, global warming and Black Books!
One of the girls staying here, Rebecca, is from Randwick in Sydney. We hooked up yesterday to explore a historical museum in the city. I discovered that Rebecca learnt saxophone at school with my good friend, Bec Grubb from Uni. Confirmation that our world is small! The museum was fascinating, a walk through time - from C11th to about C19th - putting the town Olomouc in it’s historical context.
It was a gorgeously warm day, so we had a picnic lunch in ‘Smetana Gardens’ - apparently where Smetana (a composer for those not musically inclined) used to visit frequently. To finish off the day, we went to the cozy local tea house for some DELICIOUS tea!












The day hadn’t really finished, because the owner of the hostel took a few of us to the local home-game Ice-Hockey match. That was very exciting! It was a close match, and Olomouc won. The crowd was wild, chanting with drums and trumpets. (I guess resembling the football matches back home!).
We came back, pumped, cooked dinner and then Beck and I on energetic inspiration danced to some funky music in the hostel.

* * *
Today Rebecca and I took a bus out to a forested area outside of the town. It was only when we got off the bus and started walking into the beautiful pine forest that we realised we didn't have a map with us, and with no real plan of what or where we were going! I had a vague-enough map inside my head, and was sure we wouldn't get lost. But we took care to note which paths we took and what directions we were heading. We eventually came across a sign-posted pathway, and decided to follow it. It lead us through some wonderful bush-land, tall trees, branches arching over the path, gorgeous country-side and eventually into a small quaint village. After a while, we came across a sign that said to Olomouc, 8kms. That was promising! So, we made the trek all the way back. We got back without getting lost, and suitably, happily exhausted! (but not like doing 100kms!).
The concert at the jazz club was well worth the extra night! The band was fantastic, each musician an artist! Electric, bass guitar and drums. Their influences were quite eclectic - jazz, middle-eastern, eastern european, celtic, funk and country. It's been great to see some awesome live music.

Castle corridors, conversations and crossing roads.

Sunday 4 October
Today, I ventured out of Prague to see a ‘fairy-tale’ C15th castle. (Another thing I guess you do in Europe!). Again, I found the age of the place hard to comprehend. As I wondered through the corridors, I kept thinking of the people that dwelled in this castle centuries ago - real people, living real lives…yet how different their lives and ‘world’ view / life perspective would have been to ours. It almost felt intrusive to be going through their rooms and hearing of their stories. Imagine if they knew that 6 centuries later, there would be people from all over the world coming into their castle fascinated by the way their toilets operated, how big (or small) their beds were and the secret passage for the king to get to his wife.

The country-side along the way to the castle was beautiful. Rolling hills, forests, rivers. The Castle stood on top of a hill, with a fortress around it. Leading up the hill was a quaint little township, dwarfed by the huge castle looming above it. Surrounding the castle and township were gorgeous forested hills. (Which I had to explore just a little!)















Monday 5 October - From Prague to Olomouc (3 hrs by train)

My Czech language skills are extremely limited. I’ve managed to get around ok, there is always a way to communicate, and there has been when necessary the English-speaker rescue.
But I have had a couple of mildly amusing incidences. As I was served at a shop the other day, I intently said to the lady serving “Hello” in Czech instead of thank you, and at the train station, I said “Please” as the lady gave me my ticket - again instead of thank you. Both times, the Czech ladies politely ignored my feeble attempts.

As I was traveling on the train to Olomouc - a 3 hour train trip from Prague, I sat with 2 elderly Czech ladies. They couldn’t speak any English. We tried to make some conversation, and I even had to draw a map of the world to show them where I was from. (Even though I tried saying ‘Australia’ in many different ways, they still had no idea what I was saying. ) A few hours into the trip, they began talking to me intently - in Czech - and looking rather concerned. They pulled out their ticket, and wanted to see mine. I showed them, and they kept saying “Olomouc?”. I started to worry that I was on the wrong train. They began to get more animated, and then one stood up and pointed at my bag at me. I was beginning to feel perplexed! Then one of them left the sitting booth, to go to another and find someone who could translate. She brought back a guy who asked me what the problem was. I said I didn’t really know what the problem was, but that I was heading to Olomouc - and was I on the right train. He said yes, and it was the next stop in about 10 minutes. I suddenly understood what the ladies had been so concerned about!!

I arrived in Olomouc in the early afternoon, and caught the tram to the hostel. Olomouc is a small city, picturesque, and for some a bit of relief from Prague (without all the tourists!). The buildings and lay out of the town centre are not dissimilar to Prague. I explored it quite thouroughly, wondering all the streets, popping in and out of churches, sitting for a while in more peaceful parks.

The hostel is smaller, a bit more homey and friendlier than the one in Prague. There are a couple of Aussies staying, a Polish guy, a few Americans and a guy from Ireland. Conversation has been quite interesting and stimulating.



Tuesday 6 Oct
Last night I went to a concert - a cello duo. ("Tara Fuki") It was fantastic, and very inspiring. The music was composed by the performers, including improvisation, vocalisation, and looping (cool!) with some middle-eastern influences. Right up my alley! I loved it! So I bought their CD. :)


Crossing the road has been another challenging venture. My conditioned response of looking to the right first is causing a few near-death experiences! And when I do on occasion remind myself to look left first, it feels so foreign that I cant trust there isn’t a car coming the other way and have to have a sneak look to the right just to make sure!! Adding things like trams and bicycles to the mix really messes with me.



So to heighten my adrenal glands, I went for a bike ride today! You can imagine, me on a bike on the road! But somehow, I am still alive! I think the Czech's are very polite drivers... I didn't get honked once. However, I did receive a verbal directive from a pedestrian...


I ended up on a path along a river to the next town. Once again, some natural beauty! Brightly coloured yellow, orange, red and iridescent green autumn leaves, tall thin black trunks, rolling hills in the distance.

Prague

Rich in history, culture and landscape beauty, Prague is a fascinating city full of colour, character and charm. The buildings in the old part of the city are wonderful. Each one unique in colour with ornate, detailed decorative architecture, yet still conforming to an overall theme. The people of Prague are exciting, and like the buildings - rich in colour, character and uniqueness. They are friendly, laid back, gentle and seem to have a joy to life.

Coffee’s terrible!

The history of Prague is staggering, I am still finding it hard to comprehend the age of some buildings / churches. Prague was also a place that Mozart visited frequently. His ‘summer’ house is now a museum.

I’ve been wandering the streets, absorbing the atmosphere, and falling in love with the place. A feast for my eyes! A river meanders through the city, with many bridges connecting the two sides of the city. Across the river from the ‘old town’ centre, stands Prague Castle proud, austere, on a hill. You cant miss it. A massive church, stands right next to it - magnificently tall! The surrounding areas of the Castle are gorgeous gardens and pathways through forested areas. I came across a secluded little garden grotto yesterday, and sat there for a while, enjoying the peace and tranquility away from the bustling crowds and city noises.

I’ve been to a few churches (I think that's what you do when you're in Europe) - and I remain amazed at their opulence. Fresco’s painted on high ceilings, ornate carvings and statues in marble, gold and silver, stained glass windows - art works in themselves. St Nicholas, apparently began in C13th and wasn’t completed till C18th. (actually, I think I totally have my facts wrong there... it's not even called St Nicholas... and I made up the dates - but either way, it took a few centuries for it to be finished!)


I remember when I saw St Peter’s Basilica in Rome a few years ago. At the time, I thought that the opulence was a bit over-excessive. But one thing I do appreciate is that great art takes time. That is what this city is. Art. Art with time, care and humanity . Every detail counts.

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Despite my claim to have a good sense of direction, (I know many people who would dispute this) I’ve managed to catch the tram heading the opposite way to where I’m headed 3 times! (3 different tram lines I have to add!). When I first arrived in Prague, I navigated my way out of the airport, into the city, following the directions the Hostel had given me. It was about 7pm, so I figured taking the public transport option would be safe enough, and more exciting. A bus, a train, and then a tram. I was pretty proud of myself until I was standing on the tram looking out at a beautiful lit-up square. I didn’t think this was where I was meant to be, and on sudden instict jumped off the tram. Typically, I hadn’t read the directions completely - which had indicated to ‘cross over’ the tram lines - ie the tram going the other way! But not to worry, I just waited till the next tram came, and enjoyed the surrounding ambience while waiting. The other 2 times, I ended up right at the end of the tram line! And last night, distracted by my own thoughts and excitement after hearing the Czech Philharmonic perform (woohoo), I found myself at the end of a tram line at about 10pm in the middle of no-where with no-one about! Luckily the trams run every 10 minutes! So maybe, my sense of direction isn’t all that hot…or maybe it’s my lack of "situational awareness" (Julia, that's for you :).

Coffee’s still bad!
(even with Sugar)



Saturday 3/10/09

It’s a stunning sunny day today. Everyone is out and about. I’ve been wandering around the forested hill again, up to the Castle, watched the crowds forming around for the ‘changing of the guard’ and enjoyed the feeling of the cobbled stone pavement beneath my feet. I now have 2 new room mates. A middle-aged French-man, and an Alaskan girl, Leanne, about my age. Leanne and I had a good chat - which was a welcome relief after spending too much time chatting inside my head for the past couple of days!

I discovered another garden sanctuary - an ancient hilltop fortress next to a cemetery that contains the graves of Smetana and Dvorak...(but I couldn't find them...). I sat on a bench for a some time, eating my exciting lunch - tuna and tomato on rice crackers - seriously, it was a great lunch! - and enjoying the sunshine, autumn leaves, passers-by and my book. A perfect afternoon.

I seem to be blending in quite well with the Czechs. I thought I'd immediately be identified as a tourist! But I've had quite a few people come up to me and talk to me in Czech - asking directions or making some unknown statement...I then have to break the news that Czech is not my first language.

Tea's much better. :)

Another fascinating thing is that people bring their dogs onto the trams. On the tram this evening, there were 4 dogs! A big one next to me got very excited as a little dog jumped onboard...I wonder if there are ever dog commotions on trams?!

Tomorrow I'm taking a day trip out of Prague. Monday, I move on to a town south east of Prague.