Monday, October 19, 2009

12 - 16th Oct Slovakia - High Tatras.

My next destination after Krakow was the High Tatras - Slovakian Alps. I had to catch a tram and 2 busses to get there. It was a long trip, with spectacular scenery. Every time I get out of the cities, I realise how much I love the country! As we approached Slovakia, the scenery got better and better!
I arrived in a wonderful picturesque little village called Zdiar nestled in a huge majestic mountain range in Slovakia. Apparently there was a massive mountain view outside the ‘Ginger Monkey’ Hostel I stayed at, but when I arrived there was already a low cloud settling in, and the weather didn’t get any clearer! I could only imagine the sight. The ‘Ginger Monkey’ is a quaint old cottage that an English guy, Jim, bought 2 years ago to set up as a hostel. Since it is ‘out of the way’ - it attracts ‘out of the way’ sort of travelers. By that I mean people who are looking for something more than just the city highlights / party atmosphere of traveling. Some of the guests (and staff) had been on the go for a long time. One guy had been on the road for about 4 years. I find that incredible. I don’t think I could live that way! It made me think a lot about what travel is and why we do it! More contemplations later! Anyway, the other hostel-lers were friendly, fun and interesting to chat to. (oh, and still more Australians! (and Melbournians, might I add) They ARE everywhere!)
I went for a walk when I arrived through some rolling hills / pasture-land into a pine forest. The weather was a bit dicey. Very cloudy, misty and imminent rain. But I found a great spot on top of a hill that had a panoramic view of the mountains and sat there contemplating for an unknown amount of time. (until I almost froze!!) Nice to sit and think again. J
Another communal meal at the hostel - Indian Curry!
I came to Slovakia to hike in the mountains, but on the first day there, I awoke to massive snow flakes falling thickly! It had snowed all night, and the view out the window was magical! To go outdoors was an event in itself. I was thankful for the warm clothing I’d brought with me. Thermals, 2 pairs of socks, waterproof shoes, waterproof pants and jacket, scarf, beanie, gloves. Ok, so it’s just like rugging up to ski, but somehow it’s more exciting when it’s in a wildly different country, and it’s actually snowing thick snow flakes, and the snow is about 1metre deep, and it’s right out your door! A rare occasion to experience!
Since the weather wasn’t conducive for hiking, I took the opportunity to have some rest and relaxation - lots of reading, playing cards and talking with the other guests. At the hostel, there was a dog named Wally. I must say, I’ve never really been into dogs… but Wally and I had a great time together! I went out to make a snowman, and Wally thought that was great fun. He dug up snow, ate snow, rolled in the snow and ran after the snow I shoveled away. We played soccer - I kicked the ball and he’d do a running / jump / dive into the snow attacking the ball with focused ferocity! I also took Wally for a walk (in an almost blizzard) - down to the local store for ‘supplies’. That was the first time I’ve walked a dog! (Or more like, the first time a dog has walked me…). We became fast friends.
As the snow got thicker, I and the other guests headed out with toboggans and snow-boards to the back of the house where there was a mini-slope. For about and hour we entertained ourselves with face-planting into the snow, making snow-angels and having snow fights. It was kind of cool to be sharing so much fun with complete strangers! One evening, Jim wanted us to experience some local tucker - goulash. I think most the village restaurants must have assumed no-one would be out in the snow as they were all closed. However, we did find one extremely cosy little pub that served beer and very tasty goulash for about $6! We crammed into the tiny eating area, about 12 of us, when suddenly there was a black-out. Completely, pitch-black! No light - and no heating! So we sat and shivered together, while the poor old pub owner (who was working on his own) served us beer in candle-light. I don’t think he was expecting so many people on such a cold night - and was a bit hesitant to cook up goulash for 12! But with some gentle persuasion, good cheer and the electricity coming back on he obliged.
I was going to get a lift with an Israeli couple to the next town where I’d catch the 5 hour train to Budapest, Hungary. However, as we shoveled their car out of the snow, I started thinking of the road conditions - snow and ice, and driving without chains - and the fact that the Israeli couple had never even seen snow before! I started to think that I didn’t want to end my life on a road in the middle of Slovakia - so decided to take the bus instead! (Although, Slovakian bus drivers aren’t well known for their safe driving…). I ended up being accompanied by an English guy, Edwin who was also staying at Ginger Monkey. We traveled together all the way to Budapest. He was a great traveling companion. We had some very interesting conversations, sharing the love of art, music, ‘earthy’ stuff. A friendship sparked - in a moment in time - that remains in that moment in time! It was nice to have someone else to share the navigating around once we hit Budapest at about 9pm.

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