Floating the Nile...

The setting sun cast rich colours on the sails of the Felucca as we floated dreamingly down the calm blue Nile. Palm trees and parks lined the banks, creating a lazy paradisiacal atmosphere, and we pass a very large sand-dune with ancient tombs in the side. Birds flew overhead in flocks, catching the gusts of wind in joy. It was a relaxing way to spend the afternoon, after a long day visiting the ancient tomb of Abu Simbel. Being the only passenger on the old wooden boat, my Nubian captain offered me the rudder to test my sailing skills, along with his hand in marriage! I took the rudder, and polietly refused his other offer - explaining to him that Egypt wasn't my ideal place to live! Thankfully he eventually left the matrimonial discussions, but I knew he couldn't understand why I wasn't enthusiastic about his proposal.
I was in Aswan, a relaxed, peaceful river town south of Cairo almost on the southern border of Egypt. Arriving the previous day, I had sat on the river’s edge to enjoy the sunset and peace, a welcome relief to crazy Cairo! Unfortunately, my enjoyed peace was shortlived.
I was soon pounced upon by every opportunistic Felucca tout there is as they spotted me and shouted out their Felucca deal. None of them seemed to understand that I wanted to sit and enjoy the sunset in peace and quiet. One particularly persistent guy came up to me. “But why you not want Felucca? You sit on Felucca in sunset. I give you good price.” I politely refused his offer, explaining that I just wanted to sit now, and have some peace. But it didn’t seem to achieve anything, and he started lowering the ‘good price’, thinking I was refusing his initial offer. Ignoring him didn’t work, “are you angry? Why you mad? Why you not want Felucca? I give you good price…….”. Finally I realised this guy wasn’t going to leave, the sun had set and by that stage he was offering me the Felucca for free. I turned to him and said I was wanting a Felucca for the following evening. We negotiated a price and time that I set, shook on it, and I left feeling like I had fallen into their tourist trap! Interestingly, we finished the Felucca trip, and my almost 'husband-to-be' captain then decides that we had agreed to double the price. Ha! This time, my refusal was a lot less polite! I told him in no uncertain terms that we shook on the original price, and that was all I was paying and there was no way I was paying more, and was 'shocked' that he was asking for double! I think I was letting out a bit of steam from the persistently annoying hard sell tactics these poor people use. My Nubian captain capitulated, accepted my pay, but then audaciously demanded a kiss! They are unrelenting!

Unfortunately Aswan is a bit of a tourist trap, and the city thrives hungrily on its tourist business. Fighting for space on the Nile are huge cruise ships with their motors noisily churning, filled with sun-baked tourists and destroying the charm of the simple town. The Felucca touts roam up and down the shores, snatching up their prey who feel like they have to succumb in order to get rid of their annoying persistence. A street away from the river, there is a bustling market. Again, tourists are eyed off hungrily. ’Excuse me, excuse me, hello, where are you from, I have Pashminas, good price, excuse me, English?, American?, Holland?, Australian?’. As you walk, a sea of pashminas are flapped before you, draped on you, and wrapped around you. Any slight look or perceived show of interest is immediately pounced upon and you can be followed down the street with their incessant sales chatter!

It was here though, that I learnt the art of bargaining. A way of life in these countries, I couldn’t leave my trip without taking part in the game. There are a few rules which I discovered that made things a lot easier: Know what you want to pay and only pay what you want to pay. The vendors start with a ridiculous price, often even up to 7 times the amount you should pay! Sticking to your price becomes a game, and the vendors enjoy the hard barganing, as did I. But it is definitely shopping that needs a lot of time, patience, humour, energy and some fore-knowledge of the items you intend to purchase!

I left Aswan feeling only slightly more relaxed than when I came! I travelled back to Cairo by an old rattling and bumpy overnight train. An interesting experience in itself, but I arrived in one piece!