In Monduli...
During the daytime, clucking chickens, singing birds, braying donkeys and barking dogs would create an interesting symphony of sounds. Sometimes heard in the distance were children playing - singing and laughing and hammers thumping. All pleasant to listen to.
Always lovely to get away from cars and city sounds!
The night sky was awash with bright brilliant stars. Without much electrical light coming from the township, the familiar 'Milky way', Southern Cross and 'Saucepan' (Orion's belt) were very clear. I loved going outside and looking up to the endless heavens, feeling small and rather insignificant. It also made me so aware of how we are all on this tiny planet together - seeing the same night sky that we in Australia see. It's a weird feeling. Connecting all humanity together. And yet, we are 'worlds' apart in our lives, experiences, expectations and perspectives.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Monduli - the school
Jan 15 - 24
The volunteers I stayed with were working at a secondary school that Peter (the director) opened last year. The school is funded fully by overseas donations. It has 40 students who are specifically selected from the most poorest families in the area. The students are wonderful and very grateful for the work of the teachers and donors and I enjoyed interacting with them. They are taught normal secondary school subjects - in English - with a strict rule of not speaking Swahili (their native language) while at school, and I was quite impressed by their English ability.
This photo is of the teachers - Hunter, Cacow (Tanzanian teacher), Kit, Jane and Peter (Director).
I had the opportunity to teach the kids some games. "Kingdoms" was very popular - we all had lots of fun and much laughter!
I walked to the school with Kit and Jane a couple of times. It took 1 1/2 hours to walk from Monduli, past farm land. We'd soon have a trail of giggling children behind us. One day I was walking home on my own, and almost immediately, little kids came out of nowhere to follow. I grinned at them, and said I was going to do some running. They thought that was real fun -running with me - with huge smiles on their faces. It would have given them something to talk about for a least a month... the day they ran with a wasungu. And I think it would have been quite a sight to onlookers.
some of the kids that we passed on the way to the school
Monduli - The house
Jan 15 - 24
I was staying with my aunt in a house with 3 other volunteer teachers (2 American guys - Peter & Hunter and an Irish girl - Jane). These volunteers were great fun, and created quite a crazy household. The house, in a beautiful setting, was about a 15 minute walk up a hill (or an extremely bumpy drive) from the town centre and had a lovely view back down the valley. It was a bit weird getting used to no running water. There was a small tank out the back filled with local bought water that needed to be boiled before dinking. The first thing Peter taught me was "how to have a 'bucket shower", which I became quite efficient at. At the end of the day, we'd be covered in dirt and dust, especially our feet, so a rinse off was very needed! There were 2 outside squat toilets and 1 indoor - which we refrained from using as it was quite smelly. I must admit, squatting wasn't that bad, and actually seemed alot more natural!
Each bed had a big mosi net attached to the ceiling - malaria is a real problem.
Part of the household was the cook Mabillie - who was a delightful local girl with a huge smile and alot of joy. She spoke English quite well, but enjoyed teaching me Swahili. She had a beautiful baby daughter. I went for a few walks around the area of the house - which was mostly up hill. Lots of farm land around. There were always little kids about, and they would giggle as I walked past, and no matter what time of the day, they'd call out 'goodmorning'. Or they'd shout out 'Wasungu' which means 'white person' and laugh their heads off! A few times I would pull faces at them and do a little weird dance - and they thought it was hilarious. Another crazy wasungu.
I was staying with my aunt in a house with 3 other volunteer teachers (2 American guys - Peter & Hunter and an Irish girl - Jane). These volunteers were great fun, and created quite a crazy household. The house, in a beautiful setting, was about a 15 minute walk up a hill (or an extremely bumpy drive) from the town centre and had a lovely view back down the valley. It was a bit weird getting used to no running water. There was a small tank out the back filled with local bought water that needed to be boiled before dinking. The first thing Peter taught me was "how to have a 'bucket shower", which I became quite efficient at. At the end of the day, we'd be covered in dirt and dust, especially our feet, so a rinse off was very needed! There were 2 outside squat toilets and 1 indoor - which we refrained from using as it was quite smelly. I must admit, squatting wasn't that bad, and actually seemed alot more natural!
Each bed had a big mosi net attached to the ceiling - malaria is a real problem.
Part of the household was the cook Mabillie - who was a delightful local girl with a huge smile and alot of joy. She spoke English quite well, but enjoyed teaching me Swahili. She had a beautiful baby daughter. I went for a few walks around the area of the house - which was mostly up hill. Lots of farm land around. There were always little kids about, and they would giggle as I walked past, and no matter what time of the day, they'd call out 'goodmorning'. Or they'd shout out 'Wasungu' which means 'white person' and laugh their heads off! A few times I would pull faces at them and do a little weird dance - and they thought it was hilarious. Another crazy wasungu.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Remote Africa - The town of Monduli
Jan 15 - Jan 24
The safari driver left me in Monduli - a small town where my aunt was working - on the return trip to Arusha. Monduli's landscape was a bit different to what I pictured. I thought it would be flat, hot, and maybe one or two trees. Instead, it is hugged by beautiful forested mountains (with the majestic 3500m Mt Meru in the distance), a mild temperature, and dirt roads lined by pretty jacaranda trees and flowers. The town is surrounded by farming areas - mud huts, goats, donkeys and chickens and little kids everywhere.
Like a lot of Africa, the houses in the town are mostly in disrepair, and everything seems filthy from the dirt dust in the dry season and mud in the wet season.
Most the people in Monduli are in poverty, earning less than US$1 a day. There is no running water - just a tap that is situated quite a distance from the town. Every morning, there would be women and children lined up at the tap with their donkeys and colourful buckets to fill. If they didn't own a donkey, they would walk back with the buckets balanced on their heads.
I
was always amazed at how they balanced just about anything on their heads! Frequently we saw women carrying large sticks, heavy buckets of water, a large bundle of clothes, or trays of bananas on their heads.
The town was alive on Sunday with the Sunday markets. People, donkeys, bright coloured cloth, clothing, pots, shoes, fruit and veges laid out on the ground. Noisy, smelly, dusty and exciting!
We were going to try freshly slaughtered and roasted goats meat. I was a bit dubious, so was relieved when we decided there were no choice cuts to try!
The safari driver left me in Monduli - a small town where my aunt was working - on the return trip to Arusha. Monduli's landscape was a bit different to what I pictured. I thought it would be flat, hot, and maybe one or two trees. Instead, it is hugged by beautiful forested mountains (with the majestic 3500m Mt Meru in the distance), a mild temperature, and dirt roads lined by pretty jacaranda trees and flowers. The town is surrounded by farming areas - mud huts, goats, donkeys and chickens and little kids everywhere.
Like a lot of Africa, the houses in the town are mostly in disrepair, and everything seems filthy from the dirt dust in the dry season and mud in the wet season.
Most the people in Monduli are in poverty, earning less than US$1 a day. There is no running water - just a tap that is situated quite a distance from the town. Every morning, there would be women and children lined up at the tap with their donkeys and colourful buckets to fill. If they didn't own a donkey, they would walk back with the buckets balanced on their heads.
I
was always amazed at how they balanced just about anything on their heads! Frequently we saw women carrying large sticks, heavy buckets of water, a large bundle of clothes, or trays of bananas on their heads.
The town was alive on Sunday with the Sunday markets. People, donkeys, bright coloured cloth, clothing, pots, shoes, fruit and veges laid out on the ground. Noisy, smelly, dusty and exciting!
We were going to try freshly slaughtered and roasted goats meat. I was a bit dubious, so was relieved when we decided there were no choice cuts to try!
Friday, January 23, 2009
WILD animal encounters
AFRICAN SAFARI
Sat 10 Jan - Wed 14 Jan
The safari experience was absolutely incredible! I have never seen so many wild and different and HUGE animals so close! I was with 2 other aussies - from Canberra - who were wonderful, and it was great to share the experience with them. Our safari guide was great, extremely knowledgable and very respectful of the animals and their natural behaviours.
Most impacting was the time spent just watching the animals 'do their thing' - hunting and eating prey, sharing it with their young, playing with their young, sleeping and all those things. We saw leopard, cheetah, lion (both male and female), elephants, giraffe, hippo, ostrich, many monkeys, buffalo, many zebras, warthog, hyena, impala and redbuck, and plenty of different birds.
Up close, the animals are larger than life!
Elephants were bigger than our landcruiser - yet despite their size, they are graceful, quiet and nimble. 
Elegant are the giraffes, with their long long necks and long long legs! Hippo's are squat, fat and suprisingly big! When they open their very large mouths, you can see why they are to be feared! Of course, lions up close are massive. Our first sighting - was only 5 metres away, and I can tell you, when they looked straight at me, it sent shivers down my spine, and I felt very vulnerable standing exposed in the jeep.
Sleeping in a tent at night was a bit concerning at first. Especially after a few stories our guide told us....(for example - a buffalo that lept across their dinner table with a lion on it's heals...) but we all got used to it. I did hear a lion one night - and that was pretty cool. Fortunately I didn't need to use the bathroom any night.
Apart from the amazing wildlife, the scenery was fantastic. Sunsets and sunrises on the Serengetti were awesome.
Sat 10 Jan - Wed 14 Jan
The safari experience was absolutely incredible! I have never seen so many wild and different and HUGE animals so close! I was with 2 other aussies - from Canberra - who were wonderful, and it was great to share the experience with them. Our safari guide was great, extremely knowledgable and very respectful of the animals and their natural behaviours.
Most impacting was the time spent just watching the animals 'do their thing' - hunting and eating prey, sharing it with their young, playing with their young, sleeping and all those things. We saw leopard, cheetah, lion (both male and female), elephants, giraffe, hippo, ostrich, many monkeys, buffalo, many zebras, warthog, hyena, impala and redbuck, and plenty of different birds.
Up close, the animals are larger than life!
Elephants were bigger than our landcruiser - yet despite their size, they are graceful, quiet and nimble. 
Elegant are the giraffes, with their long long necks and long long legs! Hippo's are squat, fat and suprisingly big! When they open their very large mouths, you can see why they are to be feared! Of course, lions up close are massive. Our first sighting - was only 5 metres away, and I can tell you, when they looked straight at me, it sent shivers down my spine, and I felt very vulnerable standing exposed in the jeep.Sleeping in a tent at night was a bit concerning at first. Especially after a few stories our guide told us....(for example - a buffalo that lept across their dinner table with a lion on it's heals...) but we all got used to it. I did hear a lion one night - and that was pretty cool. Fortunately I didn't need to use the bathroom any night.
Apart from the amazing wildlife, the scenery was fantastic. Sunsets and sunrises on the Serengetti were awesome.
Some highlights: watching a Leopard with it's prey in a tree and finding her cub to join in the feed; seeing lions hunt and kill a buffalo; having elephants stroll across the road in front of us; having a shower with an elephant just outside the window; hearing giraffes chomping on leaves.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Crazy bus trip.
Fri 9 Jan - Bus trip from Dar es Salaam to Monduli
I left the hotel in Dar at 4.45am, to catch the 5.45am bus. Sharon had warned me that these buses can take from 6 to 10 hours to get to Arusha, the big town in the middle of Tanzania (near Monduli). And I was to be prepared for anything - bus breaking down, axels falling off, running out of petrol, bad traffic, and a possiblity of crashing.
It took an hour just to get out of the bus terminal - which was an experience in itself. Busses lined up everywhere - except, they didnt look very 'lined' it was more like busses trying to form an intricate random mess - all racing (without much result) to get to the exit. We were told to be on the bus strictly half an hour before its departure - and it would wait for no-one, but clearly this rule did not apply to all. Every metre we moved, there would be some frantic passenger or two with a few bags shouting and banging on the front door of the bus. There were people interweiving through the busses - pushing, laughing, yelling, families saying their last goodbyes, kids playing tag - oblivious to the big moving vehicles, others selling and passing peanuts, water and bread to passengers through the windows, all accompanied by the bus radio pumping out Tanzanian pop and the loud drone of busses en masse. I enjoyed watching the whole scene.
One thing Sharon hadn't mentioned was the death wish at which the drivers opperate on. As soon as the bus was out of the terminal and on to the main road, we jerked into hyperdrive - the driver with his hand almost constantly on the horn manouevering through traffic and overtaking at horrendous speeds. Both revision mirrors were broken, so there was a 'spotter' - a guy who would stand at front door of the bus, and his job was to indicate to the bus driver when it was safe to pull back in after overtaking. He would also wave at the other vehicle, to make sure they really knew we were coming past. But the most unnerving part was the overtaking on completely blind spots - and I lost count of how many there were! We had a few incidents where I definitely thought it was the end.
I tried to just focus on the view, and the sites we were passing by. As we progressed out of the city area, there was less clutter and rubbish. The housing seemed to change - from dilapidated tin 'shanty' type to mud huts that were more neat, clean and compact. The countryside was full of many different plantations. But most intriguing were the humungous pineapples that were growing. I've never seen a pineapple so big! The earth was extremely red, and looked awesome against the vivid blue sky.
Eventually the Tanzanian pop was replaced with a really bad Tanzanian murder mystery movie - that had an awful soundtrack (the same musical theme over and over, punctuated by terrible sound effects) - and it was played at full volume. I had to resort to ear plugs.
All this seemed quite normal, and I eventually got used to the driver's erratic driving.
We had just passed through a small village (thankfully at a slower speed), when we came apon a small truck in front of us. It had 6 people standing in the back of it. Our bus driver didn't seem to be slowing down - just honking, intending on using his overtaking trick - until he suddenly realised that the truck was turning in front of us. I was sitting right at the front, and saw the whole thing transpire before me. The bus driver slammed on his brakes, but too late, and we slammed into the truck's side. The truck was thrust over on it's side, flinging the 6 people out of it, and we came to a halt. As I watched in horror, it seemed to happen so easily and simply, making me realise how vulnerable we all are. Everyone in the bus screamed, and people from the village ran out - kids, women, men screaming and wailing. The bus doors opened and passengers started clammouring out as a crowd of village men started forming around the bus. I was too horrified to move, my heart was in my mouth as I thought there may be casualties and I was not too eager to see any carnage. Things outside were starting to look a bit heated - as the men began talking aggressively with the bus driver and his 'spotter'. Suddenly a brawl started, fists, pushing and shoving, and I noticed a man with a huge rock eager to do some serious damage. I was feeling extremely nervous by this stage, and being the only white person around and not being able to communicate with anyone was not helping. The ladies on the bus were gathered around my window (which was at the front), screaming at the men and crying. Thankfully there were a few men who were able to calm down some of the aggression, and eventually the local police turned up to assist. Fortunately there were no deaths, however just bad injuries to the truck people. After what seemed hours, our bus got moving again and then had to go to report at the police station. With some intense talking and negotiating, one of the guys on the bus had to bribe the police with $100 to let us continue on the trip. I was glad to be on the road again - as I had no way of contacting Sharon - who was waiting for me at the other end.
The accident didn't seem to slow our driver down, and he continued to drive like a mad man. So I was extremely relieved when we finally pulled up in Arusha. We were 3 and 1/2 hours late, and Sharon was there waiting patiently. I think I must have looked quite pale and shooken when I got off the bus. Sharon was very sympathetic, and I was just glad to have survived a mad Tanzanian bus experience!
I left the hotel in Dar at 4.45am, to catch the 5.45am bus. Sharon had warned me that these buses can take from 6 to 10 hours to get to Arusha, the big town in the middle of Tanzania (near Monduli). And I was to be prepared for anything - bus breaking down, axels falling off, running out of petrol, bad traffic, and a possiblity of crashing.
It took an hour just to get out of the bus terminal - which was an experience in itself. Busses lined up everywhere - except, they didnt look very 'lined' it was more like busses trying to form an intricate random mess - all racing (without much result) to get to the exit. We were told to be on the bus strictly half an hour before its departure - and it would wait for no-one, but clearly this rule did not apply to all. Every metre we moved, there would be some frantic passenger or two with a few bags shouting and banging on the front door of the bus. There were people interweiving through the busses - pushing, laughing, yelling, families saying their last goodbyes, kids playing tag - oblivious to the big moving vehicles, others selling and passing peanuts, water and bread to passengers through the windows, all accompanied by the bus radio pumping out Tanzanian pop and the loud drone of busses en masse. I enjoyed watching the whole scene.
One thing Sharon hadn't mentioned was the death wish at which the drivers opperate on. As soon as the bus was out of the terminal and on to the main road, we jerked into hyperdrive - the driver with his hand almost constantly on the horn manouevering through traffic and overtaking at horrendous speeds. Both revision mirrors were broken, so there was a 'spotter' - a guy who would stand at front door of the bus, and his job was to indicate to the bus driver when it was safe to pull back in after overtaking. He would also wave at the other vehicle, to make sure they really knew we were coming past. But the most unnerving part was the overtaking on completely blind spots - and I lost count of how many there were! We had a few incidents where I definitely thought it was the end.
I tried to just focus on the view, and the sites we were passing by. As we progressed out of the city area, there was less clutter and rubbish. The housing seemed to change - from dilapidated tin 'shanty' type to mud huts that were more neat, clean and compact. The countryside was full of many different plantations. But most intriguing were the humungous pineapples that were growing. I've never seen a pineapple so big! The earth was extremely red, and looked awesome against the vivid blue sky.
Eventually the Tanzanian pop was replaced with a really bad Tanzanian murder mystery movie - that had an awful soundtrack (the same musical theme over and over, punctuated by terrible sound effects) - and it was played at full volume. I had to resort to ear plugs.
All this seemed quite normal, and I eventually got used to the driver's erratic driving.
We had just passed through a small village (thankfully at a slower speed), when we came apon a small truck in front of us. It had 6 people standing in the back of it. Our bus driver didn't seem to be slowing down - just honking, intending on using his overtaking trick - until he suddenly realised that the truck was turning in front of us. I was sitting right at the front, and saw the whole thing transpire before me. The bus driver slammed on his brakes, but too late, and we slammed into the truck's side. The truck was thrust over on it's side, flinging the 6 people out of it, and we came to a halt. As I watched in horror, it seemed to happen so easily and simply, making me realise how vulnerable we all are. Everyone in the bus screamed, and people from the village ran out - kids, women, men screaming and wailing. The bus doors opened and passengers started clammouring out as a crowd of village men started forming around the bus. I was too horrified to move, my heart was in my mouth as I thought there may be casualties and I was not too eager to see any carnage. Things outside were starting to look a bit heated - as the men began talking aggressively with the bus driver and his 'spotter'. Suddenly a brawl started, fists, pushing and shoving, and I noticed a man with a huge rock eager to do some serious damage. I was feeling extremely nervous by this stage, and being the only white person around and not being able to communicate with anyone was not helping. The ladies on the bus were gathered around my window (which was at the front), screaming at the men and crying. Thankfully there were a few men who were able to calm down some of the aggression, and eventually the local police turned up to assist. Fortunately there were no deaths, however just bad injuries to the truck people. After what seemed hours, our bus got moving again and then had to go to report at the police station. With some intense talking and negotiating, one of the guys on the bus had to bribe the police with $100 to let us continue on the trip. I was glad to be on the road again - as I had no way of contacting Sharon - who was waiting for me at the other end.
The accident didn't seem to slow our driver down, and he continued to drive like a mad man. So I was extremely relieved when we finally pulled up in Arusha. We were 3 and 1/2 hours late, and Sharon was there waiting patiently. I think I must have looked quite pale and shooken when I got off the bus. Sharon was very sympathetic, and I was just glad to have survived a mad Tanzanian bus experience!
Zanzibar Dolphin adventure.
Thurs 8
I woke early to see the sunrising on the town. Dawn has such a great feeling to it!
After another Tanzanian breakfast, Sonja and I went on a dolphin adventure with a few other travellers. Again, we were taken in a van to another part of the Island. It was a long trip past more rural areas. The coast line is absolutely stunning. White sand, turquoise, gorgeous water. Just what you would expect for an exotic paradisical island.
The boat we went out on was an old handmade wooden fishing boat with an orange tarpauline rigged up to provide shelter from the sun. We headed quite far out from the coast. 
We were soon accompanied by frolicking dolphins. I was in awe. We were told to jump in - with our flippers and snorkels, and it was an incredible experience to be swimming with the dolphins. I could see them below me, even a baby dolphin between its parents. In the silence of the ocean, we could hear the dophins calling out to each other. It was amazing. Then they'd surface for air, some with others on their backs. An amazing special moment to be so close to these beautiful creatures.
I woke early to see the sunrising on the town. Dawn has such a great feeling to it!
After another Tanzanian breakfast, Sonja and I went on a dolphin adventure with a few other travellers. Again, we were taken in a van to another part of the Island. It was a long trip past more rural areas. The coast line is absolutely stunning. White sand, turquoise, gorgeous water. Just what you would expect for an exotic paradisical island.
The boat we went out on was an old handmade wooden fishing boat with an orange tarpauline rigged up to provide shelter from the sun. We headed quite far out from the coast. 
We were soon accompanied by frolicking dolphins. I was in awe. We were told to jump in - with our flippers and snorkels, and it was an incredible experience to be swimming with the dolphins. I could see them below me, even a baby dolphin between its parents. In the silence of the ocean, we could hear the dophins calling out to each other. It was amazing. Then they'd surface for air, some with others on their backs. An amazing special moment to be so close to these beautiful creatures.
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