Picnics, tea, and ice hockey...

Morning view











They say that when people travel to Olomouc, they often end up staying there longer than they intended. I have been seduced by the place! Initially I was going to head off today, to Poland. But, with the relaxed, friendly atmosphere of the town and the hostel, and on discovering that there is a cool Jazz gig on tonight, I decided to stay another night.
Yesterday was a wonderful day. I woke early, after the first night of unbroken sleep (woohoo!) and headed out to watch the town come alive. The hostel is right in the centre of the old town, a great spot!
Inspired by last night’s communal dinner - and how food mysteriously brings people ‘together’, I offered to share some of my porridge with those that were up. The Irish guy Seamus rejoiced at my offer - and launched into how much he loves porridge, and how much he’s missed it while traveling, and how great it is for you…I had an immediate affiliation with this guy! And over our porridge, we talked of many things - cultures, industrialisation, economy, religion, global warming and Black Books!
One of the girls staying here, Rebecca, is from Randwick in Sydney. We hooked up yesterday to explore a historical museum in the city. I discovered that Rebecca learnt saxophone at school with my good friend, Bec Grubb from Uni. Confirmation that our world is small! The museum was fascinating, a walk through time - from C11th to about C19th - putting the town Olomouc in it’s historical context.
It was a gorgeously warm day, so we had a picnic lunch in ‘Smetana Gardens’ - apparently where Smetana (a composer for those not musically inclined) used to visit frequently. To finish off the day, we went to the cozy local tea house for some DELICIOUS tea!












The day hadn’t really finished, because the owner of the hostel took a few of us to the local home-game Ice-Hockey match. That was very exciting! It was a close match, and Olomouc won. The crowd was wild, chanting with drums and trumpets. (I guess resembling the football matches back home!).
We came back, pumped, cooked dinner and then Beck and I on energetic inspiration danced to some funky music in the hostel.

* * *
Today Rebecca and I took a bus out to a forested area outside of the town. It was only when we got off the bus and started walking into the beautiful pine forest that we realised we didn't have a map with us, and with no real plan of what or where we were going! I had a vague-enough map inside my head, and was sure we wouldn't get lost. But we took care to note which paths we took and what directions we were heading. We eventually came across a sign-posted pathway, and decided to follow it. It lead us through some wonderful bush-land, tall trees, branches arching over the path, gorgeous country-side and eventually into a small quaint village. After a while, we came across a sign that said to Olomouc, 8kms. That was promising! So, we made the trek all the way back. We got back without getting lost, and suitably, happily exhausted! (but not like doing 100kms!).
The concert at the jazz club was well worth the extra night! The band was fantastic, each musician an artist! Electric, bass guitar and drums. Their influences were quite eclectic - jazz, middle-eastern, eastern european, celtic, funk and country. It's been great to see some awesome live music.

Castle corridors, conversations and crossing roads.

Sunday 4 October
Today, I ventured out of Prague to see a ‘fairy-tale’ C15th castle. (Another thing I guess you do in Europe!). Again, I found the age of the place hard to comprehend. As I wondered through the corridors, I kept thinking of the people that dwelled in this castle centuries ago - real people, living real lives…yet how different their lives and ‘world’ view / life perspective would have been to ours. It almost felt intrusive to be going through their rooms and hearing of their stories. Imagine if they knew that 6 centuries later, there would be people from all over the world coming into their castle fascinated by the way their toilets operated, how big (or small) their beds were and the secret passage for the king to get to his wife.

The country-side along the way to the castle was beautiful. Rolling hills, forests, rivers. The Castle stood on top of a hill, with a fortress around it. Leading up the hill was a quaint little township, dwarfed by the huge castle looming above it. Surrounding the castle and township were gorgeous forested hills. (Which I had to explore just a little!)















Monday 5 October - From Prague to Olomouc (3 hrs by train)

My Czech language skills are extremely limited. I’ve managed to get around ok, there is always a way to communicate, and there has been when necessary the English-speaker rescue.
But I have had a couple of mildly amusing incidences. As I was served at a shop the other day, I intently said to the lady serving “Hello” in Czech instead of thank you, and at the train station, I said “Please” as the lady gave me my ticket - again instead of thank you. Both times, the Czech ladies politely ignored my feeble attempts.

As I was traveling on the train to Olomouc - a 3 hour train trip from Prague, I sat with 2 elderly Czech ladies. They couldn’t speak any English. We tried to make some conversation, and I even had to draw a map of the world to show them where I was from. (Even though I tried saying ‘Australia’ in many different ways, they still had no idea what I was saying. ) A few hours into the trip, they began talking to me intently - in Czech - and looking rather concerned. They pulled out their ticket, and wanted to see mine. I showed them, and they kept saying “Olomouc?”. I started to worry that I was on the wrong train. They began to get more animated, and then one stood up and pointed at my bag at me. I was beginning to feel perplexed! Then one of them left the sitting booth, to go to another and find someone who could translate. She brought back a guy who asked me what the problem was. I said I didn’t really know what the problem was, but that I was heading to Olomouc - and was I on the right train. He said yes, and it was the next stop in about 10 minutes. I suddenly understood what the ladies had been so concerned about!!

I arrived in Olomouc in the early afternoon, and caught the tram to the hostel. Olomouc is a small city, picturesque, and for some a bit of relief from Prague (without all the tourists!). The buildings and lay out of the town centre are not dissimilar to Prague. I explored it quite thouroughly, wondering all the streets, popping in and out of churches, sitting for a while in more peaceful parks.

The hostel is smaller, a bit more homey and friendlier than the one in Prague. There are a couple of Aussies staying, a Polish guy, a few Americans and a guy from Ireland. Conversation has been quite interesting and stimulating.



Tuesday 6 Oct
Last night I went to a concert - a cello duo. ("Tara Fuki") It was fantastic, and very inspiring. The music was composed by the performers, including improvisation, vocalisation, and looping (cool!) with some middle-eastern influences. Right up my alley! I loved it! So I bought their CD. :)


Crossing the road has been another challenging venture. My conditioned response of looking to the right first is causing a few near-death experiences! And when I do on occasion remind myself to look left first, it feels so foreign that I cant trust there isn’t a car coming the other way and have to have a sneak look to the right just to make sure!! Adding things like trams and bicycles to the mix really messes with me.



So to heighten my adrenal glands, I went for a bike ride today! You can imagine, me on a bike on the road! But somehow, I am still alive! I think the Czech's are very polite drivers... I didn't get honked once. However, I did receive a verbal directive from a pedestrian...


I ended up on a path along a river to the next town. Once again, some natural beauty! Brightly coloured yellow, orange, red and iridescent green autumn leaves, tall thin black trunks, rolling hills in the distance.

Prague

Rich in history, culture and landscape beauty, Prague is a fascinating city full of colour, character and charm. The buildings in the old part of the city are wonderful. Each one unique in colour with ornate, detailed decorative architecture, yet still conforming to an overall theme. The people of Prague are exciting, and like the buildings - rich in colour, character and uniqueness. They are friendly, laid back, gentle and seem to have a joy to life.

Coffee’s terrible!

The history of Prague is staggering, I am still finding it hard to comprehend the age of some buildings / churches. Prague was also a place that Mozart visited frequently. His ‘summer’ house is now a museum.

I’ve been wandering the streets, absorbing the atmosphere, and falling in love with the place. A feast for my eyes! A river meanders through the city, with many bridges connecting the two sides of the city. Across the river from the ‘old town’ centre, stands Prague Castle proud, austere, on a hill. You cant miss it. A massive church, stands right next to it - magnificently tall! The surrounding areas of the Castle are gorgeous gardens and pathways through forested areas. I came across a secluded little garden grotto yesterday, and sat there for a while, enjoying the peace and tranquility away from the bustling crowds and city noises.

I’ve been to a few churches (I think that's what you do when you're in Europe) - and I remain amazed at their opulence. Fresco’s painted on high ceilings, ornate carvings and statues in marble, gold and silver, stained glass windows - art works in themselves. St Nicholas, apparently began in C13th and wasn’t completed till C18th. (actually, I think I totally have my facts wrong there... it's not even called St Nicholas... and I made up the dates - but either way, it took a few centuries for it to be finished!)


I remember when I saw St Peter’s Basilica in Rome a few years ago. At the time, I thought that the opulence was a bit over-excessive. But one thing I do appreciate is that great art takes time. That is what this city is. Art. Art with time, care and humanity . Every detail counts.

****　

Despite my claim to have a good sense of direction, (I know many people who would dispute this) I’ve managed to catch the tram heading the opposite way to where I’m headed 3 times! (3 different tram lines I have to add!). When I first arrived in Prague, I navigated my way out of the airport, into the city, following the directions the Hostel had given me. It was about 7pm, so I figured taking the public transport option would be safe enough, and more exciting. A bus, a train, and then a tram. I was pretty proud of myself until I was standing on the tram looking out at a beautiful lit-up square. I didn’t think this was where I was meant to be, and on sudden instict jumped off the tram. Typically, I hadn’t read the directions completely - which had indicated to ‘cross over’ the tram lines - ie the tram going the other way! But not to worry, I just waited till the next tram came, and enjoyed the surrounding ambience while waiting. The other 2 times, I ended up right at the end of the tram line! And last night, distracted by my own thoughts and excitement after hearing the Czech Philharmonic perform (woohoo), I found myself at the end of a tram line at about 10pm in the middle of no-where with no-one about! Luckily the trams run every 10 minutes! So maybe, my sense of direction isn’t all that hot…or maybe it’s my lack of "situational awareness" (Julia, that's for you :).

Coffee’s still bad!
(even with Sugar)



Saturday 3/10/09

It’s a stunning sunny day today. Everyone is out and about. I’ve been wandering around the forested hill again, up to the Castle, watched the crowds forming around for the ‘changing of the guard’ and enjoyed the feeling of the cobbled stone pavement beneath my feet. I now have 2 new room mates. A middle-aged French-man, and an Alaskan girl, Leanne, about my age. Leanne and I had a good chat - which was a welcome relief after spending too much time chatting inside my head for the past couple of days!

I discovered another garden sanctuary - an ancient hilltop fortress next to a cemetery that contains the graves of Smetana and Dvorak...(but I couldn't find them...). I sat on a bench for a some time, eating my exciting lunch - tuna and tomato on rice crackers - seriously, it was a great lunch! - and enjoying the sunshine, autumn leaves, passers-by and my book. A perfect afternoon.

I seem to be blending in quite well with the Czechs. I thought I'd immediately be identified as a tourist! But I've had quite a few people come up to me and talk to me in Czech - asking directions or making some unknown statement...I then have to break the news that Czech is not my first language.

Tea's much better. :)

Another fascinating thing is that people bring their dogs onto the trams. On the tram this evening, there were 4 dogs! A big one next to me got very excited as a little dog jumped onboard...I wonder if there are ever dog commotions on trams?!

Tomorrow I'm taking a day trip out of Prague. Monday, I move on to a town south east of Prague.

Seoul, Korea

I'm in 'transit', in Seoul Airport. The flight yesterday to Seoul, Korea took 10.5 hours. I sat next to a lovely German girl, named Sandra too. I didn't discover her name till we were about an hour out of Seoul! Sandra is heading to back to Germany after a year long stay in Australia.
The flight seemed extra long, being a day-time flight and not much sleep!

Korean airlines put us up in a hotel overnight. Sandra and I took the option of staying in down-town Seoul - which was another hour away on the bus. It was nice to stay in the hotel, get some much needed sleep and relax - even with a deliciously hot bath! :)

I didn't see much of Seoul, just a little wander around this morning close to the hotel. Seoul city is divided up by a whole lot of meandering rivers, connected by very long bridges. It seems like a very clean city, and very efficient. Familiar in one sense - with the 'western' type buildings, yet still remaining 'unfamiliar'. The people seem friendly and polite. There were a few small gardens, and trees amongst the tall buildings and traffic. The city was covered in a low fog - or maybe it was smog - so unfortunately, the sun and blue sky didn't make an appearance.

I have another hour to wait before another looooong flight - 11 hours this time! To Prague.
I arrive in Prague about 6pm, to then discover how I will get to the hostel I'm staying at.

Monduli reflections

In Monduli...
During the daytime, clucking chickens, singing birds, braying donkeys and barking dogs would create an interesting symphony of sounds. Sometimes heard in the distance were children playing - singing and laughing and hammers thumping. All pleasant to listen to.
Always lovely to get away from cars and city sounds!
The night sky was awash with bright brilliant stars. Without much electrical light coming from the township, the familiar 'Milky way', Southern Cross and 'Saucepan' (Orion's belt) were very clear. I loved going outside and looking up to the endless heavens, feeling small and rather insignificant. It also made me so aware of how we are all on this tiny planet together - seeing the same night sky that we in Australia see. It's a weird feeling. Connecting all humanity together. And yet, we are 'worlds' apart in our lives, experiences, expectations and perspectives.

Monduli - the school

Jan 15 - 24

The volunteers I stayed with were working at a secondary school that Peter (the director) opened last year. The school is funded fully by overseas donations. It has 40 students who are specifically selected from the most poorest families in the area. The students are wonderful and very grateful for the work of the teachers and donors and I enjoyed interacting with them. They are taught normal secondary school subjects - in English - with a strict rule of not speaking Swahili (their native language) while at school, and I was quite impressed by their English ability.
This photo is of the teachers - Hunter, Cacow (Tanzanian teacher), Kit, Jane and Peter (Director).








I had the opportunity to teach the kids some games. "Kingdoms" was very popular - we all had lots of fun and much laughter!

I walked to the school with Kit and Jane a couple of times. It took 1 1/2 hours to walk from Monduli, past farm land. We'd soon have a trail of giggling children behind us. One day I was walking home on my own, and almost immediately, little kids came out of nowhere to follow. I grinned at them, and said I was going to do some running. They thought that was real fun -running with me - with huge smiles on their faces. It would have given them something to talk about for a least a month... the day they ran with a wasungu. And I think it would have been quite a sight to onlookers. some of the kids that we passed on the way to the school

Monduli - The house

Jan 15 - 24
I was staying with my aunt in a house with 3 other volunteer teachers (2 American guys - Peter & Hunter and an Irish girl - Jane). These volunteers were great fun, and created quite a crazy household. The house, in a beautiful setting, was about a 15 minute walk up a hill (or an extremely bumpy drive) from the town centre and had a lovely view back down the valley. It was a bit weird getting used to no running water. There was a small tank out the back filled with local bought water that needed to be boiled before dinking. The first thing Peter taught me was "how to have a 'bucket shower", which I became quite efficient at. At the end of the day, we'd be covered in dirt and dust, especially our feet, so a rinse off was very needed! There were 2 outside squat toilets and 1 indoor - which we refrained from using as it was quite smelly. I must admit, squatting wasn't that bad, and actually seemed alot more natural!
Each bed had a big mosi net attached to the ceiling - malaria is a real problem.
Part of the household was the cook Mabillie - who was a delightful local girl with a huge smile and alot of joy. She spoke English quite well, but enjoyed teaching me Swahili. She had a beautiful baby daughter. I went for a few walks around the area of the house - which was mostly up hill. Lots of farm land around. There were always little kids about, and they would giggle as I walked past, and no matter what time of the day, they'd call out 'goodmorning'. Or they'd shout out 'Wasungu' which means 'white person' and laugh their heads off! A few times I would pull faces at them and do a little weird dance - and they thought it was hilarious. Another crazy wasungu.